![]() ![]() In fact, I'm convinced that it sometimes takes longer to cure than 48 hours (even though it's dry). You can recoat within an hour, or after 48 hours.ĭid you catch that? You can not recoat after 24 hours (even though it's fully dry). Also, Rustoleum's recoat and dry times are not intuitive. I paint with Rustoleum (not 2x), and you can't switch colors quickly (not like you can with Krylon). I struggle with this myself at times, it's so tempting to go back and hit a spot you missed during the same painting session. Now you have to wait extra extra long for the whole think to dry all the way through and rough sand it all back down and try again. The top super light coat is drying almost immediately pulling apart the heavy layer below. The paint decided for you that you should have been done and stopped, but you kept going. If you're putting on a thick coat and wait just a minute or two and then go back with a couple light sprays looking for spots you missed, you're taking a risk that if the surface on the current coat has dried just enough the next few sprays won't soak into your current coat and will instead form a super thin light coat over your current coat which is still very much wet inside and you will start to immediately see the crinkles appear. In fact, I think this is more often the culprit than mixing paint brands. But it's still very possible to let a layer dry 100% and then even then get crinkling on top of it by improper painting techniques. This is why you can never let paint dry for too long before adding another coat, if the bottom layer is 100% dry you vastly decrease the chances of this happening. The paint layers dry and shrink at different rates, pulling on each other in different directions. It's quite humid on the ocean front here.Ĭrinkling is caused when a layer of paint dries at a different rate from a layer below it. I paint outside where it's very humid, but take it inside in my empty guest room where it can dry undisturbed in the drier air conditioning. I'm still experimenting with doing final polishing steps myself so I'll let someone else speak to that issue. I keep the rocket horizontal and constantly spin it as much as possible while it dries to avoid this. I generally hold the can much closer than the instructions say you should if I'm trying to get a nice final gloss coat, just keep the can moving at all times to avoid a buildup that can run or sag. If it's meant to be the top final coat I'll just quit using that can, get another one, and screw with it later. Either the nozzle is partially clogged, I'm holding the can too far away and the paint is half dried by the time it lands on the rocket, the can isn't shaken up enough and/or near the bottom of the can. Sometimes though the can still wants to sort of just "spittle", for me this seems to be one of a few things. ![]() Set it up horizontally to dry (hopefully you painted it that way as well) somewhere dust free. Use a tack cloth and try to paint in a dust free environment as possible. I would appreciate a real explanation about this from you paint experts. I assume that this is a result of the bottom coat trying to dry while being covered by the top layer. Crinkles: it looks as if a microscopic mountain range is trying to push up through the top coat from below. I think I've noticed that if I spray another color coat, over a still-wet rustoleum coat, that as it dries "crinkles" develop. I'm about to attempt my first clear coat over this final color coat, but am waiting to find out about polishing the color coat first. My paint process is simple: Primer, wet sand (800 g), 1st color coat, wet sand, then final color coat. Can this be polished out, AND how is paint polishing done anyway? Even after maintaining a dust free paint environment AND shaking the ssip out of the can, I still have stuff (lint/hair looking stuff) in the final paint-coat finish. ![]() I've recently discovered that I am not a paint expert. ![]()
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